The fog that has hung along the coast finally lifted and the sun was shining as she paddled out into the all-male lineup at Tables; a break that she hasn’t surfed in quite a while. The guys were jumping on a lot of waves. They rode some, bailed on some and fell off some. She laid back and watched the swells. Then she stood up and shredded a left. After that she ripped an awesome three-turn right. You can really tell when a pro is in the line-up.
That pro was Ella McCaffray, and that was the scene during the surfing session of her interview and photo shoot for the new series I’m doing for the Encinitas Board Riders titled “Meet the Pro”. I am stoked that Ella agreed to be the first pro in the series. I have known her family for years and have photographed her surfing since she was a teen. Even then I could tell she had incredible talent. To me her surfing style is a combination of grace and power set in a background of total confidence once she commits to a wave. It comes at no surprise to me that I am photographing her now as a pro.
The 21-year old told me that she has been surfing pretty much her whole life. When she was a baby her Dad would take her out on the nose of his long board in her little lifejacket and pull her up to her feet. By eleven she started competing. She has worked with a lot of coaches over the years to help her develop her skills, and she currently works with John Daniels. Growing up she competed in the usual list of surf league events and local competitions before settling into the Qualifying and Challenger Series’ of the WSL.
When I asked her if she won a lot of events during those early years, she chuckled and said “not at all”. Eventually the wins came and they are still coming. Last year she won the QS series SLO CAL Open in Morrow Bay. This year she won the Nias Pro. She also scored a number of 2nd and 3rd place finishes over the same time period.
Growing up she participated in a lot of sports, but for her surfing was the most fun. At an early age she decided she wanted to be a pro.
Needless to say the life of a pro surfer involves a lot of time on the road. Ella told me she spends less than half of the year at home. Yes, she does sometimes get homesick, but the trade off is getting to surf some of the most amazing breaks in the world, meet interesting people and experience different cultures. Her favorite surf break is Nias in Indonesia. An added perk is that the food is great there as well. Still the travel has made her appreciate what we all have here in Encinitas. There is no other place she’d rather live.
When I asked her about the competition at this level, she said that in the QS it is generally friendly- until you are in the key, and then friendships go out the window. Then it becomes cutthroat “as it should be”.
She has made a couple close friends, but still prefers traveling with her brother, Cole, who also is an amazing surfer and competitor. When possible she also likes to travel with her parents, who have been very supportive.
Financing a career as a pro surfer can be expensive and comes with its own challenges. Sponsors play a role in that and, according to Ella, securing those sponsorships has changed over the years. In the past you could promote yourself to them by putting together a resume and video edit. Now the process has become more social media based. They are looking for exposure and riders that can give that to them. Some of the expense can also be offset by prize money you win in competition.
I brought up the topic of continuing education. She told me that because she took college courses during her last two years of high school, she also graduated with an AA degree. She tried taking additional courses remotely while on the road, but the logistics just became too difficult. Someday she may want to take more classes in areas that interest her, like personal training and nutrition, but for now she is focusing entirely on surfing.
Competing at this level can take a toll on your body. She tries to stay healthy and injury-free by working out in the gym when she can, eating well and pursuing a healthy lifestyle. But in the end she said the best training for surfing is surfing.
We also discussed how female surfing compares to the male counterpart. Here she pointed out both positives and negatives. On the plus side, the prize money is the same, fewer women may be entering the sport than men, and because female surfing is popular right now sponsors like to support it. One negative is that there are fewer slots open to reach the next level compared to the men’s tour.
Finally, I asked Ella to tell me in 25 words or less what it’s like to be a professional surfer. She did it in 10. “It’s the best job ever. There’s nothing I’d rather do.”
It’s clear to me that Ella is exactly where she wants to be, and should be right now. It is likewise clear that it helps that she is exceptionally well grounded. She is grounded by her family, the town that she loves, and even her local surf club. One of the things that impresses me about Ella is that despite her success she hasn’t outgrown her desire to give back to the folks that helped her along the way. She still competes for the Board Riders and has participated in a clinic to help introduce young girls to the sport.
Ella, I want to thank you for taking the time to participate in this series. Many of the Groms I talk to tell me that they want to turn pro someday. I’ve often wondered whether they know what that journey will be like. Reading about yours may help them to pursue their dream with realistic expectations.
Written and photographed by Nicholas Paoni
