“It’s so fun!!! When I’m on a wave I get to go fast and it’s like I’m flying through the water.”  That’s what Teddy told me when I asked her what it feels like to ride a wave.  She also said that she loves the connection it gives her with the ocean, which is wild and unpredictable. Since no two waves are the same, she wants to make every one count, because she’ll never get to ride that same wave again.  I believe that even non-surfers, like myself, can make an immediate connection with the feelings Teddy expressed about surfing.

Teddy is thirteen years old and has been surfing for 2 years.  She is the only member of her family that currently rides.  Her mother surfed growing up, but has since passed the torch to Teddy.  She learned to surf at local surf camps and said that Eli Howard’s was her favorite.  “Not only are the instructors there really nice, but they had the best snacks.”  She is now coached by John Daniels in Oceanside and Ryan Simmons, the USA Surfing Team coach.

When the surf is up Teddy typically rides for 3-4 hours a day, maybe more if her homework is finished.  She rides for fun, but also to hone her skills for competition.  Last year was her first season in WSA.  She now competes in WSA, USA Prime and, with the Oak Crest Middle School Surf Team, SSS and NSSA.  She is also excited to be competing this month in her first event in Hawaii, the Haleiwa International Open.  

Teddy loves to be active.  In addition to surfing she prone paddles, and recently paddled 22 miles across the channel from Catalina to San Pedro.  She also free dives, plays club lacrosse, and runs track.  During her quiet times she enjoys a good book and has read at least 50 this year.  Her favorite genre is mystery.

Teddy told me that she hopes that surfing will always be a part of her life.  She looks up to role models like Alyssa Spencer and Caity Simmers.  Right now she is working every day to be a better surfer and competitor and is seeing where the journey takes her in the sport. College, however, is definitely something she is working towards as well.  She has a keen interest in Math and Science.

It was easy to be impressed by Teddy during her interview.  She was easy to talk to, well spoken and displayed confidence while providing sincere and thoughtful answers to my questions.  She was likewise impressive in the waves.  Although the smallest surfer in the lineup, she successfully fought for waves against guys twice her size; catching nearly every one she paddled for.

At the young age of thirteen it is impossible to know how far Teddy’s athletic and academic talents and ambitions will take her.  I’m betting, however, that regardless of whether she finds herself in the pro surfing lineup or the halls of Science or Finance, Teddy will be a force to be reckoned with.

Written and photographed by Nicholas Paoni